\n \n \n If you want to fill a carpenter bee hole and have it stay filled, the one rule that saves you from doing it twice is to make sure the tunnel is empty before you plug it. Dust the open hole and wait a few days, or do the repair in late fall […]

\n \n \n If a carpenter bee is drilling perfect round holes in your deck rail or eaves, the fix is not chemical, it is the wood itself. Carpenter bees bore into bare, weathered, unfinished softwood, so prevention is almost entirely about denying them that raw surface. Paint or polyurethane the eaves, fascia, deck rails,

\n \n \n If carpenter bees are drilling into your eaves, deck rail, or fascia, the fix is a two-step job that most people get backwards. First, dust the active tunnel openings with an insecticidal dust so the returning female carries it back into the brood; wait a few days for that to work, and

\n \n \n If carpenter bees are drilling your eaves or deck rail, the fix that actually lasts is not a poison, it is taking away the bare softwood they need to bore into. Paint or seal the exposed wood, plug the old tunnels so next year’s bees cannot move back in, and use a

\n \n \n If you have carpenter bees drilling into your eaves or deck rail, the fix that actually stops the damage is not a spray you mist around the house, it is an insecticidal dust puffed straight into the tunnel opening. The returning female walks through the dust and carries it deep into the

\n \n \n If carpenter bees are drilling into your eaves, a trap is a prevention tool, not a cure for tunnels that are already bored. A carpenter bee trap works by mimicking the round entrance a female is hunting for, luring her in and dropping her into a jar she cannot climb back out